Nicolas Houchet’s Perspective on Fruit-Based Desserts
« In competition, going for original combinations can be controversial – or even risky.» explains Nicolas Houchet, European Pastry Champion 2022, as he shares his perspective on fruit-based desserts.
The importance of texture, temperature and sweetness
For Nicolas Houchet, tasting a fruit dessert begins with texture and temperature. “If these elements aren’t right, the whole taste experience is compromised.” he says. Sweetness is also essential. Much like salt in cooking, sugar balances and enhances flavors.
He highlights that unsweetened fruit purees, such as those from Les vergers Boiron, are a major asset, as they allow chefs to adjust sugar levels to counterbalance acidity or bitterness. For example, a naturally flavorful fruit like strawberry becomes even more intense when properly sweetened.
Fat is another key component. Less prominent than in chocolate desserts, it must still be carefully incorporated to enhance the dcessert’s richness. This overall balance makes fruit-based desserts particularly technical and demanding.
Acidity and bitterness : a delicate balance
« The trickiest part is finding balance between acidity and bitterness »
Nicolas Houchet, executive chef at the Savoy and 2022 European Pastry Champion
Achieving the right balance between them is one of the most complex aspects of fruit-based desserts.
Strong fruits like citrus often need to be paired with more “neutral” fruits to create harmony. For instance, pear can soften the strength of yuzu, while lychee can add a floral note to blackcurrant without overpowering it. Some purees, such as peach or banana, also require careful attention, especially in terms of temperature, to avoid altering their natural profile.
These considerations highlight the finesse and technical demands of fruit-based desserts, which are often underestimated.
Chocolate vs. fruit desserts
According to Nicolas Houchet, chocolate is generally easier to pair with other ingredients, while fruit requires much more precision. “Creating a dessert where the raspberry does not overpower the peach, which has to be present, is another matter” he notes.
This level of precision is especially evident in plated dessert competitions, a point he has observed as a judge during events such as the Young Talents competition organized by Les vergers Boiron in the UK, with creations like the classic peach melba.
Innovation and creativity in competition
In this demanding context, innovation goes beyond flavor alone — it involves a holistic approach to dessert design. While judging criteria remain largely consistent, there is increasing attention to contemporary issues such as sustainability: reducing waste, using local ingredients, and minimizing single-use plastics.
Creativity, however, is especially expressed through textures, shapes, and the overall tasting experience — particularly when working with fruit. Nicolas Houchet himself explores new approaches, drawing inspiration from mixology. In collaboration with Simone Caporale, he has experimented with bold pairings such as coffee and passion fruit, incorporating essences, citrusy peppers, and even chipotle.
This approach expands the possibilities of pastry, introducing new aromatic dimensions to dessert creation.
Nicolas Houchet, executive chef at the Savoy and 2022 European Pastry Champion
Nicolas Houchet is a French pastry chef from Nancy, recognized for his creativity and expertise. His passion for pastry developed during his training with Jean-Claude Hammerer, followed by his experience at the Grand Hôtel de la Reine in Nancy, where he refined his skills.
In 2005, he took a new step in his career by moving to the United Kingdom, where he opened his own pastry shop, Macaron. The shop was quickly named the best pastry shop in London by Time Out, confirming his international reputation.
Following this success, Nicolas Houchet continued to develop new dessert experiences and, in 2023, joined the pastry team at The Savoy, where he launched Scoff at The Savoy, his modern reinterpretation of scones.
Today, his expertise is recognized worldwide. He is the European Pastry Champion 2022, the UK Champion 2020, and represented the United Kingdom at the Pastry World Cup in 2021 and 2023 (placing 4th). His reputation also led him to appear as a guest judge on British Bake Off: The Professionals, where he shares his expertise with the next generation of pastry chefs.